Yashica Tlr Repair Manual

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• Overview Well-designed and well-machined pro-quality TLR, with a classic look and solid feel. It is the forerunner to the well-known and wildly popular 124G, the last of a dynasty of quality Yashica TLRs and the culmination of all that came before it. Before them – among others – came the 12 (120 film only) and 24 (220 film only) but both the 124 and 124G take either 120 or 220 film.

  Yashica D printed camera manual. Receive a high quality printed and bound manual in days. 100% guarantee on all orders. If you aren\'t completely happy just return the manual for a full refund. We have been in business for over 40 years and have hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers all over the world. 1974 manual, found on a flea market and made available to the world by Alfred Bina. You can also downoad the whole volume as a 33 MB pdf.Only one download per.

  You reposition the film pressure plate to tell the auto frame counter which number to count to. Where the 124G is a slick, all-black monster of professional goodness, the 124 is a more refined-looking instrument, with chrome brightwork and pebbled covering. Until I held them both together I would have said the differences are largely cosmetic, but using them side by side reveals that there were a host of small refinements made to the G model besides the all-black finish and the reported gold-plated electrical contacts. A couple that are not obvious at first glance: the G’s pressure plate is not removable, it just slides up to switch between formats; and it has a film reminder on the focus knob. It is also silent where the 124 has a zippy ratcheting noise when you wind it. Still, they are essentially the same camera where it counts — the lenses, bodies, and shutters are identical.

  However, I have heard that the 124G, particularly the later ones, may be less robust internally, with more plastic and brass parts than the 124. Both are apparently occasionally prone to film spacing issues. One other thing I did notice was that the light seals on the 124 are a mix of black string and thick foam (which does eventually needs replacing), while the later 124G has only foam, no string.

  Still, the lovely Yashinon lenses are the same in both cameras, with a beautiful purple coating and a matched viewing and taking set to boot. I have heard that the later 124G lenses weren’t made to the same tolerances as the earlier 124 and 124G Yashinons, that also is hearsay, I have no way of confirming that.

  

  And for the record, next to the two 124s the is clearly a budget model, even if the lenses are the same. Possibly the better bargain for it, especially if you don’t need the built-in meter. A sharp Yashinon is a sharp Yashinon. Nice features of the 124: self-cocking shutter and automatic frame counting. Wind forward (clockwise) to wind the film, backwards to cock the shutter. The wheels between the lenses are for setting the aperture and shutter speed, both of which read in a little window on top of the viewing lens, so you can see the settings while looking down on the the camera. Very cool design.

  The CdS meter turns on when you open the hood, which thankfully opens and closes as one piece. I’ve heard that the switch in the hood is the first point of failure for the meter so check there first if you’re having issues! Set the ASA with the wheel on the top of the camera; match the needle with the red circle by changing the aperture and shutter speed.

  Previously I had El Capitan and it worked fine. I am in Yosemite and have a HP-Scanjet 2400.

  One common complaint on the Yashica Mats is the placement of the M-X switch, which is a lever that is adjacent to the aperture thumbwheel. It’s very easy to accidentally move the lever when adjusting that wheel, causing your electronic flash to be out of sync. Some people go so far as to tape over it. Repairs Very clean, focus just slightly resistant, I won’t say stiff.

  Just not as smooth as the D and also the 124G I played with. Probably just a little thickened grease.

  ...'>Yashica Tlr Repair Manual(24.02.2019)

• Overview Well-designed and well-machined pro-quality TLR, with a classic look and solid feel. It is the forerunner to the well-known and wildly popular 124G, the last of a dynasty of quality Yashica TLRs and the culmination of all that came before it. Before them – among others – came the 12 (120 film only) and 24 (220 film only) but both the 124 and 124G take either 120 or 220 film.

  Yashica D printed camera manual. Receive a high quality printed and bound manual in days. 100% guarantee on all orders. If you aren\'t completely happy just return the manual for a full refund. We have been in business for over 40 years and have hundreds of thousands of satisfied customers all over the world. 1974 manual, found on a flea market and made available to the world by Alfred Bina. You can also downoad the whole volume as a 33 MB pdf.Only one download per.

  You reposition the film pressure plate to tell the auto frame counter which number to count to. Where the 124G is a slick, all-black monster of professional goodness, the 124 is a more refined-looking instrument, with chrome brightwork and pebbled covering. Until I held them both together I would have said the differences are largely cosmetic, but using them side by side reveals that there were a host of small refinements made to the G model besides the all-black finish and the reported gold-plated electrical contacts. A couple that are not obvious at first glance: the G’s pressure plate is not removable, it just slides up to switch between formats; and it has a film reminder on the focus knob. It is also silent where the 124 has a zippy ratcheting noise when you wind it. Still, they are essentially the same camera where it counts — the lenses, bodies, and shutters are identical.

  However, I have heard that the 124G, particularly the later ones, may be less robust internally, with more plastic and brass parts than the 124. Both are apparently occasionally prone to film spacing issues. One other thing I did notice was that the light seals on the 124 are a mix of black string and thick foam (which does eventually needs replacing), while the later 124G has only foam, no string.

  Still, the lovely Yashinon lenses are the same in both cameras, with a beautiful purple coating and a matched viewing and taking set to boot. I have heard that the later 124G lenses weren’t made to the same tolerances as the earlier 124 and 124G Yashinons, that also is hearsay, I have no way of confirming that.

  

  And for the record, next to the two 124s the is clearly a budget model, even if the lenses are the same. Possibly the better bargain for it, especially if you don’t need the built-in meter. A sharp Yashinon is a sharp Yashinon. Nice features of the 124: self-cocking shutter and automatic frame counting. Wind forward (clockwise) to wind the film, backwards to cock the shutter. The wheels between the lenses are for setting the aperture and shutter speed, both of which read in a little window on top of the viewing lens, so you can see the settings while looking down on the the camera. Very cool design.

  The CdS meter turns on when you open the hood, which thankfully opens and closes as one piece. I’ve heard that the switch in the hood is the first point of failure for the meter so check there first if you’re having issues! Set the ASA with the wheel on the top of the camera; match the needle with the red circle by changing the aperture and shutter speed.

  Previously I had El Capitan and it worked fine. I am in Yosemite and have a HP-Scanjet 2400.

  One common complaint on the Yashica Mats is the placement of the M-X switch, which is a lever that is adjacent to the aperture thumbwheel. It’s very easy to accidentally move the lever when adjusting that wheel, causing your electronic flash to be out of sync. Some people go so far as to tape over it. Repairs Very clean, focus just slightly resistant, I won’t say stiff.

  Just not as smooth as the D and also the 124G I played with. Probably just a little thickened grease.

  ...'>Yashica Tlr Repair Manual(24.02.2019)